a chinwag with ngali founder denni francisco
How to centre your biz around respectful relationships.
Tell us about Ngali and how it got started. Ngali began from a desire to create something that could hold story, art, fashion and community all at once. What started as a small idea has grown into a contemporary First Nations fashion label that works to translate artworks into wearable pieces.
From the beginning, Ngali has been grounded in connection: to Country, to creativity and to the idea that fashion can carry meaning beyond trends. The brand has evolved slowly and intentionally over time, shaped by relationships, conversation and a belief that First Nations creativity belongs within the broader fashion landscape in a powerful and contemporary way. At its heart, Ngali is about storytelling – not only through print and design, but through the opportunities created around the work for artists and community.
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Tell us how Ngali works directly with First Nations artists to bring garments to life. Everything begins with relationship. Ngali works closely with First Nations artists and art centres, and those conversations shape the direction of each collection from the very beginning. Rather than simply placing artworks onto fabric, the process is much more collaborative and considered. We spend time understanding the story, the feeling and the intention behind a work, and then explore how it can be respectfully translated into a garment or scarf while maintaining the integrity of the original piece.
Artists remain part of the journey throughout it – from permissions and approvals through to sampling and final outcomes. It’s important that the work still feels connected to the artist’s voice, even as it moves into another medium. There’s also a real sense of exchange in the process. Fashion becomes a way for artworks to move through the world differently – worn, experienced and shared – while continuing to create visibility and economic opportunities for First Nations creatives and communities.
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When Ngali started, what felt important to get right from the beginning? From the beginning, trust and respect felt essential to get right. It was important that artists felt comfortable and fully supported in choosing to share their artworks for collaboration and translation into fabric prints. That meant creating a process where there was clear understanding, ongoing conversation and genuine care around how stories and artworks would be represented and protected.
Ngali has always approached this work through collaboration rather than extraction. The intention was never to simply “use” artworks, but to create something together – where artists remain central to the process and their voices continue to guide the outcome. Protecting the integrity of the artwork and the story behind it was, and still is, one of the most important parts of the brand.
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Eight years on, what has changed about the relationships Ngali forms and maintains with its designers? Over the past eight years, the relationships with artists and community have deepened in a meaningful way. Together, we’ve navigated all the realities that come with life and running creative businesses – from COVID and shifts within the marketplace, to periods of sorry business, health challenges, and family and community commitments. Through all of that, there’s been a shared commitment to continue moving forward with care, respect and understanding. Those experiences have strengthened the way we work together. The relationships are built on trust, ongoing conversation and a genuine sense of collaboration, rather than being purely transactional.
What feels especially important is that we’ve continued to create meaningful economic opportunities and visibility for the artists and communities we work with. There’s a strong sense now of growing alongside one another, which feels very special.
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What do you hope for Ngali over the next eight years? Over the next eight years, I hope to see even greater economic opportunities created for First Nations artists and their communities through the fashion industry. I would love for Ngali to continue being part of that journey, but more broadly, I hope the growth of First Nations creativity within the industry expands opportunities for more artists, more designers and more communities right across the country. There’s incredible creative talent within community, and fashion has the ability to create visibility, connection and long-term outcomes when approached in the right way.
If Ngali can play a meaningful role in helping contribute to that future – creating pathways, collaborations and opportunities that extend beyond ourselves – then that feels like a legacy truly worth working towards.
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What do you think the broader Australian fashion industry still gets wrong about collaborating with First Nations artists and designers? I think the industry is still learning that meaningful collaboration takes time, relationship and responsibility – it can’t be approached as a quick trend or a surface-level inclusion exercise. There’s often a focus on the visual outcome without fully understanding the cultural process behind the work. Genuine collaboration with First Nations artists and designers involves ongoing conversation, trust, proper permissions, respect for story, and ensuring artists remain connected to and acknowledged within the outcome.
I also think there’s still more work to do around creating long-term economic opportunities rather than one-off moments of visibility. Representation is important, but so is ensuring First Nations creatives are part of the broader business, creative and decision-making conversations within the industry.
At the same time, I do think the industry is evolving. There’s growing awareness around cultural integrity and a stronger willingness to listen and learn, which feels really positive. The more collaboration is approached with care, respect and reciprocity, the stronger and more meaningful the outcomes become for everyone involved.
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